I made Rowley Leigh’s ‘Asparagus with Speck and Sorrel’ from the Financial Times Weekend magazine last week, with the addition of a poached egg and some bread to eat it with. It is very easy to make and so luxuriant. I couldn’t find speck, so used Serrano ham instead, and also green asparagus instead of white, that I could not find. Rowley’s page is usually the first I turn to when I get the FT at the Weekend – he has to fight it out with David Tang’s agony uncle column – and is always worth reading. His restaurant, Le Café Anglais in the art deco shopping centre Whiteley’s is old fashioned and charming – the parmesan custard with anchovy toasts are glorious.

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